It's interesting to contrast this with how wine has been viewed historically in (European) wine producing countries. Before the days of safe, distributed water, wine, well, alcohol, was absolutely necessary to add to water to sterilise and render it safe to drink. Pre-2002 it was actually a legal requirement that we gave our vineyard employees in France 2 or 3 litres of wine a day or equivalent value. Of course no one actually give their workers wine (but they still do give the value in the form of luncheon vouchers) and nowadays with modern strength wine, you'd be consigning your workforce to an early grave if you did. But it shows how wine was thought of historically. Of course, there was always a small amount produced for a wealthy elite. Think cru Bordeaux or Charlemagne's beloved Corton. But the vast amount of wine produced was 6-8% "gros rouge" made for adding to water for rehydration purposes. They probably didn't bother with any stemware.
It certainly puts those influencer videos into a new light, doesn't it?
I love all the ideas for reframing wine as a real world object rather than something aspirational for a special upper class elite who can afford a house big enough for the entirely fashionable table and tablescape. It returns wine to a drink of the people, and I think that's enchanting. I don't think wine will ever hit like beer (due to the price difference mainly) but I do hope it can become a drink of the everyman.
It’s something I think about often—how wine was the beverage of choice for all classes, for thousands of years. Beer was there, too, of course but they coexisted so well.
You’re right, though, that beer has the advantage of price point and single serve packaging these days.
I think wine gets elevated to “special occasions only” status partially because it takes so long to make well and you really only get one shot at it a year.
Beer can be made pretty much whenever, and relatively cheaply—grain and hops are much cheaper and easier to farm than grapes, not to mention easier to “keep.” So beer becomes this extremely accessible product by virtue of it being easier to make well.
I agree. I think it is more than wineries at fault- it is the “influencers” being sent wine to stage at home wearing expensive clothing (which they tag and plus) crazy dishes they bought just for the shot, fancy food and flowers… blah blah boring and trite. I absolutely have had a $100 bottle of Champagne in solo cups with friends because who cares. I have put wine in a flask for college football and basketball games because I don’t drink liquor. There is so much untapped marketing for wine- but instead we get hundreds of people analyzing the downfall of wine and not changing marketing whatsoever.
Yes but I’d also ask why influencers market wine that way—and I’d argue it’s because the wine industry markets that way, so that’s how they believe wine should be marketed. Influencers are often given direction and suggestions on how wine should be represented with explicit guidelines on what stemware to use, etc
The call is coming from inside the house if you know what I mean. And I agree, we can’t make changes in how wine is viewed when we aren’t making changes ourselves.
YESYESYESYESYES.
*High-Brow/Low-Brow Pairing: Fried Chicken (Popeye's, natch) & Grower Champers
*Cluttered Desk/Workspace Pairing: Foillard Morgon
*Spring Fever/Just-Finished-Yardwork & Allergy Pairing: Il Censo Praruar Orange
It's interesting to contrast this with how wine has been viewed historically in (European) wine producing countries. Before the days of safe, distributed water, wine, well, alcohol, was absolutely necessary to add to water to sterilise and render it safe to drink. Pre-2002 it was actually a legal requirement that we gave our vineyard employees in France 2 or 3 litres of wine a day or equivalent value. Of course no one actually give their workers wine (but they still do give the value in the form of luncheon vouchers) and nowadays with modern strength wine, you'd be consigning your workforce to an early grave if you did. But it shows how wine was thought of historically. Of course, there was always a small amount produced for a wealthy elite. Think cru Bordeaux or Charlemagne's beloved Corton. But the vast amount of wine produced was 6-8% "gros rouge" made for adding to water for rehydration purposes. They probably didn't bother with any stemware.
It certainly puts those influencer videos into a new light, doesn't it?
Agreed, and I think sharing the historical context of wine and its culture importance around the world will help.
I love all the ideas for reframing wine as a real world object rather than something aspirational for a special upper class elite who can afford a house big enough for the entirely fashionable table and tablescape. It returns wine to a drink of the people, and I think that's enchanting. I don't think wine will ever hit like beer (due to the price difference mainly) but I do hope it can become a drink of the everyman.
It’s something I think about often—how wine was the beverage of choice for all classes, for thousands of years. Beer was there, too, of course but they coexisted so well.
You’re right, though, that beer has the advantage of price point and single serve packaging these days.
I think wine gets elevated to “special occasions only” status partially because it takes so long to make well and you really only get one shot at it a year.
Beer can be made pretty much whenever, and relatively cheaply—grain and hops are much cheaper and easier to farm than grapes, not to mention easier to “keep.” So beer becomes this extremely accessible product by virtue of it being easier to make well.
What a great post with real life facts. Thank you!
thanks!
I agree. I think it is more than wineries at fault- it is the “influencers” being sent wine to stage at home wearing expensive clothing (which they tag and plus) crazy dishes they bought just for the shot, fancy food and flowers… blah blah boring and trite. I absolutely have had a $100 bottle of Champagne in solo cups with friends because who cares. I have put wine in a flask for college football and basketball games because I don’t drink liquor. There is so much untapped marketing for wine- but instead we get hundreds of people analyzing the downfall of wine and not changing marketing whatsoever.
Yes but I’d also ask why influencers market wine that way—and I’d argue it’s because the wine industry markets that way, so that’s how they believe wine should be marketed. Influencers are often given direction and suggestions on how wine should be represented with explicit guidelines on what stemware to use, etc
The call is coming from inside the house if you know what I mean. And I agree, we can’t make changes in how wine is viewed when we aren’t making changes ourselves.
True- wineries definitely give direction. It’s part of why I turned that role down years ago. I am way too me… to play by someone’s very boring rules.